EAGLE WATCHING, HARRISON MILLS: DAY 3

Today turned out to be one of those highlights that I'll never, ever forget. I took a boat safari on the Harrison River to see the Bald Eagles that gather every fall to feed on the salmon carcasses that litter the waterway after spawning.

Eagles were everywhere: on beaches, gravel bars, and atop pilings. They roamed the log booms in Harrison Bay and the wetlands just east of Pretty Estate Resort. They filled the bare trees, soared in the sky, and bickered over one piece of salmon when there were dozens all around them. I heard them mew, whistle, cluck, and shriek, we got so close. I lost count after several hundred!

Earlier I had chipped the ice off my windshield before I drove to Kilby Historic Site where I met the boat from Fraser River Safari, the company leading the safari, and signed my waiver. The boat is ideal: large, with huge windows that open, and it's heated, which was a bonus. I was glad to be in my hiking boats as we crunched across the gravel and sand to reach the beach under the railway bridge where the boat was waiting.

Rob and Jo Anne Chadwick were a great team. Rob piloted the jet boat with skill and understanding of the many photographers aboard. Jo, his wife, did the commentary, and did it well. We learned about the river and its history, the local First Nations, the logging and fishing industries that began in the 1850s and still continue today. But she excelled with her knowledge of eagle habitat, migration south to feed, life cycle, and behaviours.

Fresh snow caked the mountain peaks and the sun highlighted them all morning.  The steel-grey river was higher than usual for December and was running fast, full of the pouring rain of the last few days. The light was not as bright as I hoped and photography was a huge challenge. To prevent camera shake and to stop the motion of the birds, I had to use a high ISO and a wide open aperture of f4.5, the widest I could get my long telephoto lens. Even then the fastest shutter speed was only 1/500th. Still it worked reasonably well, producing one decent shot in about seven, and one in ten that was great.

We saw the confluence of the Mighty Fraser and the Harrison River and then turned around and made our way up the Harrison as far as the rapids. Rob beached the boat on a gravelbar so we could see the remains of the salmon left by the eagles having eaten their fill. Gorged, would be a better word! They don't leave much behind for nature to decompose.

My three-day winter getaway deep in the Fraser Valley of British Columbia gave me a taste for the cycle of nature that has been occurring here from time immemorial, a touch of luxury at Rowena's Inn, and some gourmet food at the River's Edge. Highly recommended!

IMAGES: (c) Photos by Pharos 2012. All rights reserved

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STAMP #4: Around Harrison Hot Springs

Before I checked out of Harrison Resort, I enjoyed the breakfast buffet in the Lakeside Café with a view up the lake. Not that you can see the northern end - it's 75 kms (43 miles) north! The buffet was sumptuous with a chef preparing fresh farm eggs to order. I had eaten too much the night before to partake in eggs benedict however much I wanted to!

Harrison's 9-hole golf course

The wind was still creating whitecaps and those out walking the beach were bundled up as I loaded the car. My first stop was at the local golf course, owned by the Harrison Resort. It's a full length, nine hole course that was built decades ago. Donna in the pro shop took me on a whirlwind tour in a golf cart. We both nearly froze. The fairways are flat and straight, with many mature trees. It was in good condition, if a bit wet in spots. They have a resident bobcat who kept out of sight. I wished I had time to play here.

On into the countryside just outside HHS that is farm country, mostly dairy, and very photogenic. The Farmhouse Natural Cheeses is a family business producing artisan goat and cow cheeses. All tasted magnificent and I bought $50 worth of French-style goat cheeses and a lovely sharp cheddar. I was allowed into the goat barn which also had a resident family of fearless barn cats, most of whom climbed up my pant legs. Outside in a paddock a donkey grazed and beside the shop were sheep and lambs. Visitors can see the cheese-making process through a window in the shop.

This is the area of the Agassiz-Harrison Mills Circle Farm Tour that takes visitors to ten venues (not all are open all year). Sadly The Back Porch was closed - I would have liked to visit here and bought a cup of coffee. It is a pottery, a coffee roastery, an antique shop, and more. They also grow Red Russian Garlic for sale. Also I was too late by a week or so to take in the Tulip Festival, and the farmers' market was yet to start this year.

Kilby's gift shop and café

However, Kilby Historic Site staff were expecting me and I absorbed the history of the region and how the Kilby family helped maintain the area from the 1920s to 1977 through my guide's excellent commentary. The Kilbys ran a general store, a farm, a gas station, the railway station, a hotel, and the post office here and when they were no longer needed, they donated everything to the province of BC. It is an astonishing living record and museum. The general store is exactly as it was. In season, costumed guides show visitors how life was lived in pioneering days and later. Children are not forgotten and can meet cows, turkeys, chickens, and goats close up. The gift shop is huge and interesting and the cafe serves good, plain fare typical of the 1920s.The site also includes a small provincial park on the shores of the Harrison River that has a sandy beach and a few camp sites. It's nice and quiet!

Fritz, the winemaker

My last stop was just east of Mission at Kermode Wildberry Wines. This was a new experience for me, having never really enjoyed any fruit wines I'd tasted before. I was pleasantly surprised. The winemaker explained the difference between his wine and that made from grapes. He uses mostly wild BC berries from all over the province. I tasted about ten (spitting as I was driving) - some I liked, all were interesting, some were wildly unusual like Sitka Mountain Ash wine. I needed an open mind. The port I tried was so good, I bought a bottle to pair with gorgonzola or chocolate.

Then it was home in the sunshine to process all my adventures.

Images:  © Photos by Pharos (Julie H. Ferguson) 2012

• Stamp #1: Harrison Hot Springs, Bc 
• STAMP #2 Harrison Mills 
• STAMP #3 Harrison Hot Springs